In 1996, French chef Joël Robuchon – considered the best chef in the world at the time – retired (temporarily) and handed the baton, or rather the spatula, to Ferran Adria – the owner and chef of elBulli, located two hours north of Barcelona in the small coastal town of Roses. It rocked the gastronomic world that a Frenchman – always the epitome of culinary excellence – was handing over the reins to a Spaniard – a Catalan even. The following year elBulli received its third Michelin star, and in 2003 Ferran Adria graced the cover of the New York Times Magazine with the headline “The Nueva Nouvelle Cuisine: How Spain Became the New France,” accompanied by a fourteen-page article. Since then, the culinary world has not been the same.
It’s no wonder then, that as Craig and I were planning our trip to Barcelona, food was going to be high on the agenda. With just four nights to plan for I spent months doing research, reading reviews and articles, and pouring over websites. There were so many options, and even more opinions. It was overwhelming. Even if we could have gotten a reservation elBulli was not a consideration because the gastronomic world was shocked once again in 2010 when Adria announced he would close his restaurant the following year. At the height of its success, and after being named the best restaurant in the world an unprecedented five years in a row, elBulli was to be shuttered.
41 Degrees – Oyster with “Ajo Blanco,” Grape and Caviar
I was, however, able to start with his latest culinary projects.
Today Ferran, with his younger brother Albert, own Tickets and 41 Degrees; and this time it’s Albert who is at the creative helm. The two restaurants have completely different concepts, so it seemed worthwhile to experience both. To balance the Adria brothers’ precious jewel-like bites and sips, I chose another restaurant, Hisop, which is part of the bistronomic trend defined by small restaurants opened by young, well-trained chefs cooking regional food with an experimental edge. Hisop earned its first Michelin star in 2010, and it would be our first Michelin star experience.
But for our first night, the requirements were a little different. Low-key, walking distance from our hotel, with food that wasn’t overly challenging but still creative and delicious, and with a reputation for good, friendly service. Our choice: La Pepita.
I'm standing at the entrance to Park Güell, eyes closed, awash in a sea of voices speaking different languages. It's one of the things I love most about traveling: losing yourself in the sounds of another culture, forced to be an outsider and at the...
With beautiful architecture that changes from building to building to building, I've never enjoyed exploring a city so much as I did Barcelona, and I can't wait to return and find new places and spaces to lose myself in all over again.
Fourty-one courses consisting of tastes and sips in a culinary trip around the world. There are some elBulli classics here, as well as many other unique and new dishes, all with the common goals of intense flavor, gorgeous and pain-staking presentation, along with surprise and...
Hisop is a small, starkly modern and minimalist dining room located in a quiet alley off Barcelona's busy Avinguda Diagonal. Open since 2001, in 2010 it received its first Michelin star and would be our first Michelin experience. While I know stars aren't required for...
Tickets is considered the hardest reservation to get in Barcelona right now. Seats are released at midnight GMT exactly sixty days in advance and are quickly snapped up, so it requires calculated advance planning if you're going there. And you are going – because it's...
La Pepita was just the type of place I had hoped for. With the energy of a favorite neighborhood restaurant, it was absolutely packed. We decided to give ourselves over to the chef and let them choose which tapas to bring out for us to...